Proposed Lido Lesson Syllabus

Notes: Lesson numbers don't necessarily correspond to the actual lessons, as some people learn more quickly than others, and it takes time to fully absorb the material. The syllabus was developed for a fast-track program in which lessons are longer than one hour. However, new material should not be introduced before the lesson it is listed under unless the student has substantial experience and has demonstrated competence on all maneuvers.

There is a limit to how much a person can learn in a single day, so don't try to cover more than is listed in each lesson in one day.

[ Lesson 1 ] [ Lesson 2 ] [ Lesson 3 ] [ Lesson 4 ] [ Lesson 5 ]

Lesson 1:

  • Entering the boat

    1. Instruct students to step near the centerline of the foredeck.

    2. Instruct students who are on the boat to balance the boat for people climbing in.

  • Before Leaving the Dock

    1. Have all students sit in the boat with one at the tiller

    2. Ask how we will leave the dock - let them think about it. Point out that there are boats and/or sailboards in the way.

    3. Explain Sailing Backwards:

      1. To sail backwards the boat must be pointing into the wind.

      2. How you can tell where the wind is coming from?
        (Point out that you can't count on seeing anything not on the boat.)

        When the boat is pointing into the wind, the boom is over the middle of the boat.

      3. If the boom is not over the middle of the boat how do you get the boom back over the middle of the boat?

        You can't put the boom over the middle of the boat; you have to put the boat under the boom.

      4. If the boat is going backwards, which way should the rudder be pointing to make the stern of the boat move under the boom?

        To move the boat under the boom when the boat is going backwards, push the tiller away from the boom.

        Make sure they all understand

        • why you sail backwards,

        • why you have to be pointing into the wind to sail backwards,

        • why you move the tiller away from the boom to sail backwards.

        When you are far enough away from the dock, which way do you want to turn the boat to start sailing? Which way do you want the stern to go? (You can only control the stern of the boat - that's where the rudder is! If you move the stern in one direction and the centerboard is down, the boat will pivot around the centerboard and the bow will point in the other direction). How will you move the tiller to point the bow where you want it?

      5. When sailing backwards, to turn the bow of the boat away from the seawall, move the stern of the boat towards the seawall by moving the tiller away from the seawall.

    4. Select one student to sail first, another to cast off the boat. Ask for volunteers or select students if you have a good reason.

  • Leaving the dock

    1. Have the person who will be casting off climb off the boat and untie the bow painter. Make sure she understands not to do anything else until you tell her.

    2. Review briefly with the first skipper how they will sail backwards and then turn the boat to sail. Have her tell you what she will do.

    3. When the boat is pointing into the wind and everyone seems ready, tell the person casting off to simply step onto the boat, holding the bow painter, climb into the boat, feed the painter under the jib sheets and stow it near the anchor.

    4. You should be sitting on the south side (away from the seawall) of the boat, ready to grab the tiller or sheets if necessary. Make sure the mainsheet is not cleated, and monitor the sailing backwards and turn.

    5. Once the boat is pointing in the proper direction, sheet in the jib, move people around to balance the boat and instruct the skipper to sail towards the two similar buildings in Emeryville, or some other appropriate target on a slightly close reach. Now, discuss sail trim.

  • Trimming the Sails

    1. Trim the jib yourself so the boat has some motive force. Let the main flap.

    2. How do you trim a sail? How tight should it be? How can you tell if it's too tight?

      Explain that a sail should be trimmed as far out as possible while it is still working efficiently.

    3. Is the main working efficiently?

      Explain that the front edge of the sail is called the luff, and if wind hits the backside of the sail near the luff that's called luffing. If a sail is luffing it is not working efficiently.

    4. What should you do if the sail is luffing?

      Explain that if the sail is luffing you can stop the luffing by pulling it in with the sheet. You can also stop the luffing by turning the boat away from the wind (where the wind is coming from), so it's important to keep on your course while you trim the sail.

    5. What if the sail is not luffing? Is it in too tight?

      Explain that if the sail is too tight it doesn't develop as much force (it is "stalled") and the force it does develop is not in the optimum direction.

    6. How can we tell if the sail is too tight?

      Unless we have some special indicators (to be discussed later), we can't.

    7. What do we do?

      Let the sail out until it starts luffing and then pull it in until it stops.

    8. What's the first thing you do to trim a sail?
       Is it luffing?
       How do you know?

      The first thing to do to trim a sail is to look at the sail!
      If it's luffing, pull it in until it stops, if not, let it out until it starts luffing, then pull it in until it stops.

    9. Have a crewmember trim the jib. Have the skipper trim the main.

    10. Why did the boat turn?

      When you pull in or let out a sail, it changes the balance of forces on the boat and causes the boat to turn. It's not a problem when trimming the jib because the skipper is watching the course and steering. But when the skipper pulls in the main she usually looks at the sail, not at the course.

      When trimming the main, don't look at the sail!  Pull or release the mainsheet a foot or so while holding your course, then glance at the main and repeat as needed.

    11. Which sail do you trim first?

      Release both sails, have the skipper trim the main then have the crew trim the jib. Make sure the skipper holds her course.

    12. Why is the main luffing?

      Explain that changing the jib affects the wind which hits the main, so trim the jib first (actually you can trim either sail first, but you'll end up trimming the main last). Every time the course changes relative to the wind the sails have to be retrimmed.

  • Sailing Different Courses

    1. Have the skipper fall off (turn away from the wind) and head up (into the wind) to different courses. Have the skipper tell the crew what she is doing ("heading up" or "falling off") so the crew knows to be prepared to trim the jib. End up sailing on a close reach.

    2. What do you do if the boat heels over too far?

      The three actions to take if the boat heels over too far are (in this order):

      1. Move weight to the high side or hike out

      2. Head up slightly into the wind (most people head up too much; it takes practice to get it right, so don't worry)

      3. If all else fails, let out the mail so that it luffs. If the main is not reefed, it might be a good idea to reef it. A luffing main is called a "fisherman's reef".

      If there are waves be sure to have the skipper sail on a broad reach to experience wave action on the quarter.

    3. Explain tacking:

      Explain that you will be turning into the wind and beyond, so the sails will end up on the other side of the boat.

      The steps are:

      1. The skipper instructs the crew "Ready About"

      2. The crewmember who is controlling the jibsheet pulls it in and up to release it from the cleat, but does not loosen it (let the jib out), and then says "Ready".

      3. When the crew reports ready, the skipper turns the boat into the wind by moving the tiller ("helm") towards the boom (the "lee" side of the boat) and says "helm's alee". The boat turns into the wind and the sails start to luff.

      4. As the jib starts to luff, the crew releases the jibsheet.

      5. As the boom crosses the middle of the boat, the skipper:

        1. releases the mainsheet, making sure it's uncleated
        2. crosses to the other side of the boat (toward the tiller)

        the crew crosses to the other side of the boat.

      6. Once the end of the boom is no longer over the boat, the skipper puts the tiller towards the middle of the boat and starts sailing on her new course. The crew pulls in the jibsheet on the new leeward side.

        A common error is for the skipper to get the tiller stuck behind her so she can't get it back to the middle of the boat. If this happens when there is a strong wind, the boat will continue turning, jibe and capsize! Have the skipper try lifting up the tiller to see that she can lift it over her if necessary. Stress that it is essential to get the tiller back as soon as the boom end is no longer over the boat.

      7. Finally, both sails are trimmed for the course, everyone takes a deep breath and discusses what went wrong.

    4. Have the skipper tell you how she will come about, and have her repeat the entire sequence until she gets it right.

    5. Have the skipper come about. Stop her at any time up to crossing the boat if things aren't going well. If the skipper forgets to release the main sheet as the boom crosses the boat, do it yourself and remind her.

    6. After things have settled down on the new course, discuss what went right and what went wrong, making sure everyone understands what happened. If necessary, right the capsized boat and then have the discussion.

    7. Repeat sailing and tacking until the skipper gets it right at least twice. Set your courses so as not to exit the Junior sailing area.

    8. Why do you release the mainsheet when you're just going to pull it in again?

      If someone does something wrong, like not releasing the jib or crossing the boat too soon or too late, if the main fills and there's a strong wind blowing there's a good chance of a capsize. If the mainsheet is released, it gives the skipper more time to correct for the problem. Once you're experienced and sailing with experienced crew it won't be necessary to release the mainsheet, but it will still be a good idea unless you're racing.

  • Heaving To

    1. Explain how to heave to - almost like coming about but:

      1. Skipper instructs crew "Prepare to heave to".

      2. Crew handling the jib makes sure the jibsheet is firmly cleated and then LETS GO OF THE JIBSHEET.

      3. Just as in a tack, skipper turns the boat into the wind by putting the helm to the lee and calling "helm's alee". As the boom crosses the middle of the boat the skipper
        1. releases the mainsheet, making sure it's uncleated
        2. crosses to the other side of the boat (toward the tiller)

        the crew crosses to the other side of the boat.

      4. When the boom end is no longer over the boat, the skipper returns the tiller to the middle. The skipper DOES NOT sheet in the main, but makes sure it is uncleated and free to run all the way out.

      5. As the boat slows down, the skipper slowly pushes the tiller to the lee side of the boat (towards the boom), lifting it over the side of the boat as far as it goes, and holding it there with the hiking stick.

    2. Have the skipper tell you how she will heave to, and have her repeat the entire sequence until she gets it right.

    3. Have the skipper heave to. Stop her at any time up to crossing the boat if things aren't going well. If the skipper forgets to release the main sheet as the boom crosses the boat, do it yourself and remind her. As the boat slows, make sure the skipper doesn't push the tiller too quickly (or you could come about accidentally, in which case you can demonstrate how to right a capsized boat), but make sure she does push it all the way out and keeps it there.

    4. After things have settled down explain what went right and what went wrong, then explain the hove-to position:

      The jib is back-winded, doing 2 important things:

      1. blocking wind from hitting the rear of the main, effectively disabling the mainsail.

      2. trying to force the bow of the boat away from the wind.

      The main is mostly luffing, but every now and then the jib pushes the bow far enough off the wind that the back of the main (the clew area) fills with wind and starts to push the boat forward.

      The rudder doesn't do anything when the boat isn't moving, but when the main forces the boat forward the rudder forces the bow back into the wind, causing the main to luff fully again. The boat slowly heads up and falls off in a generally stable position.

    5. Explain that this position (hove-to) is useful for bailing the boat (have someone do this if necessary), to catch your breath after you do something frightening (like capsizing), to have lunch or to switch skippers.

    6. Switch skippers.

    7. Have the new skipper tell you why the boat isn't sailing ("what's wrong with this picture?) and what will have to be done to get it sailing. He should mention that:

      1. The jib is on the wrong side,

      2. The main is out too far and is luffing,

      3. The tiller is off to the side of the boat.

      To get the boat moving he will have to

      1. Have the crew put the jib on the other side,

      2. Get the tiller near the middle to control the boat and set his course,

      3. Trim the sails.

    8. Explain the command to put the jib on the other side:

      "Put the jib on the other side" and have him do it and get sailing again.

    Continue the lesson with the new skipper, starting with Sailing Different Courses, and ending with another heave to.

    Continue the lesson with the third skipper, if there is one, starting with Sailing Different Courses, but instead of heaving to, have the skipper sail towards the dock and discuss docking.

  • Docking the Lido

    1. Explain that the goal of docking a boat is to have the boat come to a stop just as it reaches the dock: not a foot after it reaches the dock, and not a foot before it reaches the dock. In order to do this we have to sail the boat slowly ("slow sail"). Explain slow sailing:

      1. the rudder is effective only when the boat is moving, so we have to keep the boat moving in order to be under control.

      2. How do you make a sailboat sail slowly?

        since the sails provide the power, we have to reduce the effectiveness of the sails to go slowly.

      3. How do you reduce the effectiveness of a sail?

        If a sail is luffing completely it is almost totally ineffective. If both sails are allowed to luff fully, the boat will stop.

      4. What direction does the boat have to be pointing to slow-sail?

        Have the skipper sail a beam reach and try to luff both sails (release the jib and main sheets). He will see that the main cannot luff completely, and the boat will not go slowly. It should be clear that the boat has to be on a close reach to slow sail.

      5. How do we approach the dock?

        We have to approach the dock from downwind, but still at enough of an angle that we can fill the main.

    2. Select a crewmember to catch the boat as we dock, and explain to her that she will step towards the centerline of the foredeck, holding the bow painter (which is not tangled with the jibsheets), and will step off the boat onto the dock and hold on to the painter.

    3. Have the skipper sail just above the middle dock and, at the end of that dock, have the crew release the jib and the skipper should let the main all the way out.

    4. While the boat still has some speed the skipper should turn the boat towards an empty spot on the dock near the hoist, and should pull the main in just until the clew starts to fill. He should watch the boat speed, pulling in more if the boat slows down too much.

    5. The skipper should let out the main if the boat gets going too fast, and pull it in if it gets too slow.

    6. As the boat nears the dock, the skipper should prepare to head up into the wind to make the boat stop. The first few times, the boat will still be moving as it reaches the dock, but as long as it's slow enough it shouldn't be a problem.

    7. When the boat is docked, immediately show people how to drop the jib, and, in heavy winds, also the main. Then have everybody leave the boat, stepping on the centerline of the foredeck and trying not to step on the jib, and demonstrate how to tie the bow painter to the dock.

    8. Ask if there are any questions, and try to answer them or find someone who can.

    9. Sign in the boat and find some more students for your next lesson.


    Lesson 2:

    The second lesson will typically be a repeat of the first lesson, with some greater variation in course angles to the wind, moving between a very broad reach and close hauled. If necessary and if the student is ready, teach her how to use the hiking stick.

    As in the first lesson, have the student explain what she will do for each maneuver before she does it for the first time.

  • Close Hauled Sailing

    1. Explain sailing close hauled

      1. a boat can't sail directly into the wind, so to go in that direction you sail as close to the wind as possible and tack back and forth.

      2. What determines how close to the wind you can sail?

        Demonstrate that the limit is how tight the jib can be pulled in (show that the jib will start to luff before the main - if the main starts luffing first after it is pulled in all the way, the outhaul is too loose).

      3. How do you sail as close to the wind as possible?

        Since we will want the jib in as tight as possible, instruct the crew to pull the jib in tight. The skipper then sails the boat at a course which keeps the jib properly trimmed.

      4. How can the skipper keep the jib trimmed?

        Just as the crew trims the jib by pulling it in if it's luffing and letting it out if it isn't (and then pulling it back in after it luffs), the skipper falls off (away from the wind) if the jib is luffing, and heads up if it isn't, until the jib luffs, at which time she falls off.

    2. Have the skipper sail close-hauled, using the hiking stick if possible and if the skipper is comfortable enough. Remember to start far enough downwind to remain in the Junior Skipper sailing area.


    Lesson 3:

    Start by repeating the second lesson, with close-hauled sailing, to be sure each student is ready to proceed. Some students require several lessons to become comfortable with these primary maneuvers, so don't try to rush them.

    If the student appears comfortable, start discussing the Man Overboard:

    1. Explain the Man Overboard maneuver:

      1. As in docking, the goal is to come to a stop right next to the person being recovered.

      2. How do you come to a stop right next to someone?

        Just as in docking, you have to slow sail as you approach the target, so you have to be in a position to slow sail to the target?

      3. Where do you have to approach the target from?

        To slow sail you have to be on a close reach, so you have to start from downwind of the target, and off to the side.

      4. How do you get to this position after the person falls off?

        The main challenge is to get downwind of the target, so as soon as the person falls off, the skipper has to fall off (turn away from the wind) to a broad reach.

      5. As you sail away, how will you find the person when you want to head back?

        As the skipper starts to fall off, she has to assign one crewmember to watch the person. This crewmember has no other responsibilities (doesn't trim the jib, etc.), but keeps his eye on the target.

      6. So now you're sailing away from the target but downwind. How do you get back?

        After going downwind a couple of boat lengths, the skipper heads up and comes about, heading back in the general direction of the target. This is done as a single maneuver (don't try to stabilize a close reach, or you'll end up upwind of the target). To successfully come about, the boat has to have sufficient speed to head up into the wind and go through it. As the boat heads up, the skipper has to pull in the main to keep the sail full and keep the boat moving.

      7. After coming about, the boat will probably not be far enough downwind of the target to slow sail, so the skipper should immediately fall off to go downwind of the target.

      8. As the boat nears the target, the skipper should slowly turn upwind without pulling in the main, and have the crew release the jib. Then the skipper simply slow sails the boat until the target is reached. In a Lido it is recommended that the target be brought in on the windward side of the boat.

        The path of the boat in this maneuver is sort of a figure 8.

    2. Have the skipper try to pick up something overboard (if you forgot to bring something, ask for volunteers:-). The most common problem will be that the skipper gets flustered and doesn't get the boat slowed down enough, so the object is pushed away by the bow wake. If this happens, just try again.

    3. Keep practicing until the skipper is reasonably comfortable with the procedure.


    Lesson 4:

    Repeat maneuvers from previous lessons and if the student appears comfortable introduce the Jibe.

  • Jibing

    1. Explain the jibe:

      1. A jibe typically starts from a dead run and ends up in a dead run, but with the mainsail on the opposite side of the boat.

      2. How can we tell when we're on a run?

        On a broad reach, the telltales on the shrouds of the Lido are hit by wind off the main, so they are not accurate at all. If a boat is on a broad reach with both sails on the same side, when the boat falls off to a run the main will block all the wind from hitting the jib and the jib will collapse. This is the best way to determine you're on a run in a Lido. If the sails are on opposite sides (wing-and-wing) you can't really tell a run very well.

      3. Why can't we just let the wind push the main across as in a tack?

        In a tack, the wind pushes the main across the boat slowly. With the boat facing downwind, the main is way out, and if the wind caught it and pushed it across it would pick up so much speed and momentum that it would possibly break the rigging (this has happened), but at the least it would probably hit someone on the head and cause the boat to capsize. We can't just let the wind push the sail across.

      4. So how do we prevent this damage?

        We try to limit the amount of momentum the sail can pick up, by reducing the angle it swings through. Even with this, a jibe is still more tricky and dangerous than a tack.

      5. How do we reduce the angle?

        As the boat sails downwind, the skipper quickly pulls the main in towards the centerline of the boat, then turns the boat slightly to let the wind catch the other side of the main. As the main swings across, the skipper catches it on the other side and then relatively quickly lets it all the way out.

      6. Is that really all there is to it?

        Not even close! First, it takes three hands to do this, two to pull in the main and one to hold the tiller. As the main is pulled in, the boat tries to head up, so the skipper has to use the tiller to keep the boat on a run. As soon as the mainsail fills on the back side it tries to force the boat to turn up into the wind on the new tack, so the skipper has to fight this with the tiller. It's a lot trickier than it sounds.

      7. So if it's that difficult, how do you do it?

        There are several techniques, but this is probably the easiest:

        1. The skipper falls off from a broad reach until the boat is on a run (the jib collapses). Don't judge wind direction by the telltales on the shrouds - they are affected by wind spilling off the main sail when on a run, and don't judge wind direction by waves - they tell you what the wind was doing half an hour ago.

        2. The skipper warns the crew ("prepare to jibe"). The crew get their heads down (why do you think it's called a "boom") and yell ready.

        3. The skipper crosses to the other side of the boat (the side the boom is on) and puts her hip against the tiller to hold the course. She should be ready to push further with her hip as she pulls in the sail.

        4. The skipper uses her hands to pull the mainsheet in as far as she can. She can face forward and pull the sheet between the boom and the cleat (DO NOT pull the sheet through the cleat) or face the back and pull in the sheet between the boom and the traveler. As she pulls it in, she has to push harder on the tiller to fight the boat's tendency to turn upwind.

        5. When the boom is over the boat, the skipper pushes even further on the tiller to turn the boat so that the wind will catch the back of the main to push it across.

        6. As soon as the the skipper feels the force on the sail reduce, she yells "Jibe Ho", warning the crew again to get their heads down. Then she uses one hand to help the boom across and puts the other hand on the tiller, ready to shove it over in the other direction as the boat tries to head up (which hand to use depends on whether you're facing forwards or backwards - use the convenient hand).

        7. As the boom crosses and the wind force increases in the new direction, the skipper lets the main out, not allowing it to swing free, but cushioning it as it goes all the way out, and moves the tiller as required to keep the boat heading in the same direction.

        8. While all this is going on in the back of the boat, one crewmember moves around to keep the boat balanced; the rest of the crew stays where they are.

        9. Once the main is all the way out and the boat is stable the skipper sits down, the crew puts the jib on the other side, and everyone takes a deep breath.

        10. The skipper should be careful not to overcompensate when keeping the boat from heading up, or the boat may head far enough over to accidentally jibe back. This usually causes a capsize.

      8. Have the skipper try a jibe. It's a good idea to do the first jibes in the lee of Hs Lordship's restaurant where the wind and waves aren't too strong. Once the skipper has done two successful jibes, head out into the real wind and try it again.


    Lesson 5:

    Again, repeat the earlier maneuvers, especially man overboard and jibe.

  • Sailing in Circles

    1. Explain how to sail in circles:

      Half of this maneuver should be familiar from the man overboard. The skipper starts on a close reach, tacks, falls off sharply to a run, jibes and heads up again.

    2. Practice a few circles until the student is comfortable with them.

    If the student is comfortable with all the maneuvers, it's time to introduce

  • Sailing with the Centerboard Up.

    The purpose of this exercise is to familiarize the student with the feel of the boat with centerboard up in case the tide is low and the board has to be up, and to recognize how the boat feels with the board up so she can recognize when the centerboard has accidentally come up by itself.

    1. Explain the function of the centerboard:

      1. The centerboard has two critical functions:

        1. it keeps the boat from moving sideways while allowing it to go forward, so even a mostly sideways force from the sails will still make the boat go mostly forward,

        2. it serves as a pivot point, allowing you to turn the bow of the boat by moving the stern in the other direction.

      2. If the centerboard is up, the boat will make a lot more leeway (move sideways) when trying to sail upwind, and it won't turn nearly as well when the tiller is moved. In addition, the boat will probably have considerable lee helm (it will be necessary to hold the tiller towards the lee side of the boat to keep a straight course). It also won't tack worth a damn, since it doesn't turn into the wind well.

    2. Raise the centerboard. To raise it, you have to reduce the sideways force on the board by pinching into the wind. Release the downhaul and pull on the uphaul until the board is up.

    3. Have the skipper try sailing various points of sail and try coming about. The point of this exercise is not to master sailing with the centerboard up, but rather to see what it feels like.

    4. After playing around for a while, lower the centerboard by again trying to pinch into the wind. It won't be easy.

  • Sailing Backwards:

    1. Just for practice, try sailing backwards out in the middle of the daysailing area. To sail backwards you have to point into the wind.

    2. Is there anything you need to do before you head into the wind?

      Try heading into the wind without first releasing the jib. Explain how a backwinded jib will swing the bow around very quickly. This is often a good way to turn the boat when you're caught in irons and don't have room or time to sail backwards.

    3. Now release the jib and head into the wind.

    4. How can you tell when you're sailing backwards?

      In general you can judge boat speed by looking at the bubbles next to the boat. The most difficult part of this exercise is to start steering backwards before the boat goes out of irons and starts sailing forward. Just sail backwards as in leaving the dock.

    This is not required, but is a good exercise.

  • Anchoring

    1. Demonstrate or have a student demonstrate anchoring before doing capsize.

      1. Make sure the anchor line is securely tied to the bow painter and that the painter is securely tied to the boat.

      2. Demonstrate how to unhook the anchor from its harness (this could be done at the dock before leaving).

      3. To demonstrate anchoring, take out the anchor, release the jib, put the boat in irons and slowly lower the anchor over the bow, making sure the anchor line is not wrapped around the jibsheets.

      4. After the anchor hits the bottom (let the students feel the difference in force on the anchor line when it hits), slowly pay out the anchor line until it reaches the end.

    2. Sit in the anchored boat for a while, and explain how to take ranges to see if the boat is moving.

      1. A range is a line defined by two objects on the shore, one directly behind the other. If the boat remains on a range (i.e. the objects remain lined up) then it hasn't moved across that range.

      2. Two ranges which intersect define a fixed point. If the boat remains on two separate ranges (preferably at about right angles to each other) then it has not moved. This is a good way to make sure an anchor has properly set on the bottom.

    3. Raise the anchor:

      1. Slowly pull the in the anchor line until it is vertical (the bow of the boat is directly over the anchor.

      2. Pull the anchor line up until the anchor is free of the bottom (let the students feel the change in force when the anchor comes free). It may be necessary to pull very hard, or yank on the line if the anchor has been well set.

      3. Once the anchor is off the bottom, someone has to be controlling the tiller. If there is enough room to allow further drift downwind, you can have the crew backwind the jib and fall off into a hove-to position. Otherwise, sail away from the lee shore on a close reach, with the anchor still in the water, until it is safe to heave to.

      4. Have the person holding the anchor line pull the anchor out of the water so people can see how muddy it is, then shake the anchor in the water to release the mud on it. When the anchor is clean, mount it back in its harness and neatly coil the anchor line.

  • Capsizing

    1. Do not practice capsizing unless the crew knows they will be doing it and are prepared.

    2. Explain how to right a capsized boat.

      1. After the boat is capsized, release all sheets from their cleats.

      2. Have one crewmember swim to the bow and hang on to the bow painter.

      3. Have the other crewmember hang onto the centerboard trunk, and do so yourself.

      4. Have the skipper climb onto the centerboard. This can be done from inside the boat, climbing over the centerboard trunk, or from the bottom of the boat (very difficult without long arms and lots of strength). The skipper can actually climb over the side and onto the centerboard as the boat goes over, and almost not get wet at all! The skipper should stand at the top of the centerboard, near the hull.

      5. The skipper should grab the jibsheet between the sail and the fairlead, so it's held by the figure 8 knot in the end of the sheet. She should then lean back, moving one foot if necessary.

      6. The crewmember at the bow acts as a sea anchor, turning the boat into the wind. As the boat turns into the wind the mast will start to come up out of the water. As the boat comes up, the skipper on the center- board can climb over the side and into the boat. The crew hanging on to the centerboard trunk will be pulled into the boat as it comes up. The crewmember at the bow will have to swim back and climb in (over the stern is easiest). Another person should help.

      7. Once everyone is in the boat, someone should backwind the jib and put the boat into a hove-to configuration. Someone else should start bailing.

    3. Have the skipper capsize the boat. Be far enough from the rocks that you can drift for a while without danger.

      The easiest way to capsize a Lido is to sail close hauled, have people stop hiking out and, if necessary, fall off the wind without letting out the sails.

    4. Have the skipper right the boat. Get it bailed out before sailing back to the dock.


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