Notes: Lesson numbers don't necessarily correspond to the actual lessons, as some people learn more quickly than others, and it takes time to fully absorb the material. The syllabus was developed for a fast-track program in which lessons are longer than one hour. However, new material should not be introduced before the lesson it is listed under unless the student has substantial experience and has demonstrated competence on all maneuvers.
There is a limit to how much a person can learn in a single day, so don't try to cover more than is listed in each lesson in one day.
Explain that a sail should be trimmed as far out as possible while it is still working efficiently.
Explain that the front edge of the sail is called the luff, and if wind hits the backside of the sail near the luff that's called luffing. If a sail is luffing it is not working efficiently.
Explain that if the sail is luffing you can stop the luffing by pulling it in with the sheet. You can also stop the luffing by turning the boat away from the wind (where the wind is coming from), so it's important to keep on your course while you trim the sail.
Explain that if the sail is too tight it doesn't develop as much force (it is "stalled") and the force it does develop is not in the optimum direction.
Unless we have some special indicators (to be discussed later), we can't.
Let the sail out until it starts luffing and then pull it in until it stops.
The first thing to do to trim a sail is to look at the sail!
If it's luffing, pull it in until it stops, if not, let it out until it
starts luffing, then pull it in until it stops.
When you pull in or let out a sail, it changes the balance of forces on the boat and causes the boat to turn. It's not a problem when trimming the jib because the skipper is watching the course and steering. But when the skipper pulls in the main she usually looks at the sail, not at the course.
When trimming the main, don't look at the sail! Pull or release the mainsheet a foot or so while holding your course, then glance at the main and repeat as needed.
Release both sails, have the skipper trim the main then have the crew trim the jib. Make sure the skipper holds her course.
Explain that changing the jib affects the wind which hits the main, so trim the jib first (actually you can trim either sail first, but you'll end up trimming the main last). Every time the course changes relative to the wind the sails have to be retrimmed.
The three actions to take if the boat heels over too far are (in this order):
If there are waves be sure to have the skipper sail on a broad reach to experience wave action on the quarter.
Explain that you will be turning into the wind and beyond, so the sails will end up on the other side of the boat.
The steps are:
the crew crosses to the other side of the boat.
A common error is for the skipper to get the tiller stuck behind her so she can't get it back to the middle of the boat. If this happens when there is a strong wind, the boat will continue turning, jibe and capsize! Have the skipper try lifting up the tiller to see that she can lift it over her if necessary. Stress that it is essential to get the tiller back as soon as the boom end is no longer over the boat.
If someone does something wrong, like not releasing the jib or crossing the boat too soon or too late, if the main fills and there's a strong wind blowing there's a good chance of a capsize. If the mainsheet is released, it gives the skipper more time to correct for the problem. Once you're experienced and sailing with experienced crew it won't be necessary to release the mainsheet, but it will still be a good idea unless you're racing.
the crew crosses to the other side of the boat.
The jib is back-winded, doing 2 important things:
The main is mostly luffing, but every now and then the jib pushes the bow far enough off the wind that the back of the main (the clew area) fills with wind and starts to push the boat forward.
The rudder doesn't do anything when the boat isn't moving, but when the main forces the boat forward the rudder forces the bow back into the wind, causing the main to luff fully again. The boat slowly heads up and falls off in a generally stable position.
To get the boat moving he will have to
"Put the jib on the other side" and have him do it and get sailing again.
Continue the lesson with the new skipper, starting with Sailing Different Courses, and ending with another heave to.
Continue the lesson with the third skipper, if there is one, starting with Sailing Different Courses, but instead of heaving to, have the skipper sail towards the dock and discuss docking.
since the sails provide the power, we have to reduce the effectiveness of the sails to go slowly.
If a sail is luffing completely it is almost totally ineffective. If both sails are allowed to luff fully, the boat will stop.
Have the skipper sail a beam reach and try to luff both sails (release the jib and main sheets). He will see that the main cannot luff completely, and the boat will not go slowly. It should be clear that the boat has to be on a close reach to slow sail.
We have to approach the dock from downwind, but still at enough of an angle that we can fill the main.
The second lesson will typically be a repeat of the first lesson, with some
greater variation in course angles to the wind, moving between a very broad
reach and close hauled. If necessary and if the student is ready, teach her
how to use the hiking stick.
As in the first lesson, have the student explain what she will do for each
maneuver before she does it for the first time.
Demonstrate that the limit is how tight the jib can be pulled in (show
that the jib will start to luff before the main - if the main starts
luffing first after it is pulled in all the way, the outhaul is too
loose).
Since we will want the jib in as tight as possible, instruct the crew
to pull the jib in tight. The skipper then sails the boat at a course
which keeps the jib properly trimmed.
Just as the crew trims the jib by pulling it in if it's luffing and
letting it out if it isn't (and then pulling it back in after it
luffs), the skipper falls off (away from the wind) if the jib is
luffing, and heads up if it isn't, until the jib luffs, at which
time she falls off.
If the student appears comfortable, start discussing the Man Overboard:
Repeat maneuvers from previous lessons and if the student appears comfortable
introduce the Jibe.
On a broad reach, the telltales on the shrouds of the Lido are hit by
wind off the main, so they are not accurate at all. If a boat is on
a broad reach with both sails on the same side, when the boat falls
off to a run the main will block all the wind from hitting the jib
and the jib will collapse. This is the best way to determine you're
on a run in a Lido. If the sails are on opposite sides (wing-and-wing)
you can't really tell a run very well.
In a tack, the wind pushes the main across the boat slowly. With the
boat facing downwind, the main is way out, and if the wind caught it
and pushed it across it would pick up so much speed and momentum that
it would possibly break the rigging (this has happened), but at the
least it would probably hit someone on the head and cause the boat to
capsize. We can't just let the wind push the sail across.
We try to limit the amount of momentum the sail can pick up, by
reducing the angle it swings through. Even with this, a jibe is
still more tricky and dangerous than a tack.
As the boat sails downwind, the skipper quickly pulls the main in
towards the centerline of the boat, then turns the boat slightly to
let the wind catch the other side of the main. As the main swings
across, the skipper catches it on the other side and then relatively
quickly lets it all the way out.
Not even close! First, it takes three hands to do this, two to pull
in the main and one to hold the tiller. As the main is pulled in,
the boat tries to head up, so the skipper has to use the tiller to
keep the boat on a run. As soon as the mainsail fills on the back
side it tries to force the boat to turn up into the wind on the new
tack, so the skipper has to fight this with the tiller. It's a lot
trickier than it sounds.
There are several techniques, but this is probably the easiest:
Half of this maneuver should be familiar from the man overboard.
The skipper starts on a close reach, tacks, falls off sharply to
a run, jibes and heads up again.
If the student is comfortable with all the maneuvers, it's time to introduce
The purpose of this exercise is to
familiarize the student with the feel of the boat with centerboard up in
case the tide is low and the board has to be up, and to recognize how the
boat feels with the board up so she can recognize when the centerboard has
accidentally come up by itself.
Try heading into the wind without first releasing the jib. Explain how
a backwinded jib will swing the bow around very quickly. This is often
a good way to turn the boat when you're caught in irons and don't have
room or time to sail backwards.
In general you can judge boat speed by looking at the bubbles next to
the boat. The most difficult part of this exercise is to start steering
backwards before the boat goes out of irons and starts sailing forward.
Just sail backwards as in leaving the dock.
This is not required, but is a good exercise.
The easiest way to capsize a Lido is to sail close hauled, have people
stop hiking out and, if necessary, fall off the wind without letting
out the sails.
Lesson 2:
Close Hauled Sailing
Lesson 3:
Start by repeating the second lesson, with close-hauled sailing, to be sure
each student is ready to proceed. Some students require several lessons to
become comfortable with these primary maneuvers, so don't try to rush them.
Lesson 4:
Jibing
Lesson 5:
Again, repeat the earlier maneuvers, especially man overboard
and jibe.
Sailing in Circles
Sailing with the Centerboard Up.
Sailing Backwards:
Anchoring
Capsizing